Can You Imagine The Japnease Culture
Without Ramen recipes
when you hear the word ramen, what is
the first thing you picture, you can thank. And World War II and the
Yakuza crime syndicate.
In August 1945 Japan had just
announced its surrender to the Allies, and Ando was walking through
war-torn Osaka. The Allied Forces aerial bombing had wrought
destruction on the city; the factory and office buildings Ando had
constructed as a business venture were no longer standing.
That fateful day, amidst the ravaged
city, he walked by a strange scene. Someone had set up a makeshift
ramen stand among the debris. People were lined up, waiting for a
bowl. Apparently, this image stuck with the businessman.
Thirteen years later, he perfected his formula for instant ramen and debuted it to the world.
Ramen is so much more than the food
that gets you through rent week. The Japanese dish traditionally
consists of wheat noodles, broth, an infinitely mutable seasoning
base called tare, and optional toppings.
There's almost no limit to the styles
and ingredients that can comfortably sit under the ramen banner.
The history of ramen, started around
400 AD, when the first Chinese immigrants arrived in Japan. In the
ensuing centuries, a fascinating, often-fraught relationship
developed between the two powers, with cross-cultural exchange
flowing in both directions.
Either directly or indirectly, Chinese
immigrants introduced the Japanese to the art of paper-making, the
Chinese calendar, and Buddhism, along with new kinds of food.
One of the ingredients that was
eventually imported to Japan from China was the wheat noodle lamian,
to understand its significance, we need to discuss pH.
Unlike many of the noodles diners were
familiar with, lamian noodles are made with alkaline mineral water.
What does that mean?
It's just common science- pH is
generally measured from 0 to 14, with pure water considered to have a
neutral pH of 7.
This somewhat simplified description of
pH is squarely in what our fact-checker called the good enough zone
of explanation.
When we say water is neutral, were
really saying there are an equal number of hydroxide ions the
negatively charged OH- and hydronium ions the positively charged
H30+reacting with one another.
We can represent two of those opposite
ions existing in equilibrium as 2 molecules of the more familiar H20.
pH is calculated based on the concentration of those positively
charged hydronium ions.
Anything with a pH under 7, indicating
a higher concentration of hydronium ions, is considered acidic.
Basic substances, on the other hand,
shift the equilibrium towards hydroxide ions and are labeled with pHs
over 7.
where does alkalinity come into
play?
Basic substances that can dissolve in
water are called alkalis. This solubility, or ability to dissolve in
water, is critical when it comes to cooking.
These charged ions are small, mobile
and quick to react with larger, more complicated molecules, in the
words of food scientist, This means that the building blocks of food
fat, proteins, and carbohydrates often behave differently as we
change the pH of their environments.
That is how ceviche is made, the
acidic, usually citrus-based marinade surrounds raw fish with
hydronium ions, which interact with the strings of amino acids that
make up proteins.
The proteins can then be unfolded from
their original states, a process known as denaturingthe effect is for
the raw fish to be essentially cooked by the acidic marinade.
When it comes to alkalis and the
culinary arts, were usually talking about baking soda. In baking, its
used to balance acidic flavors and to interact with acidic
ingredients to create C02 bubbles.
That acid/base reaction is kind of like
a science fair volcano, and it helps doughs and batters rise.
Alkalis are also used in the making of
tortillas.
When it comes to ramen, alkalis are, in
some ways, acting more like the acidic ceviche marinade then they are
the baking soda found in cookies. Its not a perfectly well-known
process, but we do know that alkalis can denature proteins, just as
acids can.
In Chinese cuisine, for example,
seafood is sometimes soaked in an alkaline brine containing baking
soda or egg whites before cooking. It gives shrimp a firmer, almost
crunchy texture.
And when an alkaline substance is added
to a noodle recipe, it apparently affects the way glutens interact in
the dough. More water is absorbed into the flour, more starches break
down, and the result is a springy, chewy noodle thats less likely to
dissolve in a bowl of hot broth.
The chemical reaction between the
alkaline solution and the dough also gives ramen its signature yellow
hue.
But the first Chinese noodles served in
Japan werent called ramen at all. They were known as shina soba.
Shina is an archaic Japanese word for China and soba was a catch-all
term for any noodles found in Japan at the time, though it usually
referred to buckwheat noodles.
Because of its offensive connotations,
the word shina eventually fell out of use, and was eventually
replaced by ramen, which likely came about from the Japanese
pronunciation of the Chinese term lamian.
The word lamian comes from la, which
means pulled, and mian, which means noodles. Though there are many
stories surrounding the origins of modern ramen, the one thats most
widely accepted by experts comes from the early 20th century.
Its believed that a noodle shop called
Rai Rai Ken popularized the dish when it opened in Tokyo, Japan, in
1910. The Chinese cooks there served their wheat noodles in a salty
broth and topped them with roasted pork, fish cake, and nori.
These ingredients are still considered
classic ramen toppings today.No room in the budget for fish cake.
Around the same time, Japan was
becoming more industrialized. The countrys growing urban, working
class needed something cheap and filling to fuel their work days, and
ramen filled that need.
Its ascent to worldwide fame entered a
new stage during the Allied occupation of Japan after World War II.
The only way to get ramen, which was something people bought from
food stalls rather than made at home, was to find it on the black
market.
Illegal food vendors were a common
presence in Japan throughout World War II, and they became more vital
than ever in the post-war period, when government rations were often
weeks late, through either legitimate shortages from decreased
agricultural production or simple mismanagement of resources.
Thousands of vendors were arrested for
selling ramen after the war, most of whom were under the direction of
the Japanese organized crime syndicate known as the Yakuza. Ramen
really became mainstream in 1958, courtesy of our friend from
earlier, Momofuku Ando.
Inspired by his decade-old memories of
that made shift ramen stand, he believed the cheap, working-class
meal was a perfect fit for Japanese pantries.
All Ando had to do was transform the
noodle bowl into something that could sit on a shelf for months and
be ready to eat in minutes.
He started by simply dehydrating
noodles, but they didnt cook fast enough for his liking. After months
of experimentation, he discovered flash-frying. Frying dehydrated
noodles evaporates the water droplets trapped inside them and creates
tiny perforations.
This method solved two problems
Less water in the noodles meant they
were less likely to go bad, and all those holes meant they rehydrated
faster when boiled. He added chicken flavoring to create his
masterpiece.
Andos chickin ramen is often called the
first product of its kind, but that may not be true.
They never received a patent, though,
and stopped making the product after a few months of weak sales.
Where that company failed, though, Ando
thrived. Later, Ando would reflect on his decision to use chicken
flavor, realizing, By using chicken soup, instant ramen managed to
circumvent religious taboos when it was introduced in different
countries.
Hindus may not eat beef and Muslims
may not eat pork, but there is not a single culture, religion or
country that forbids the eating of chicken.Though his goal was to
make ramen noodles accessible to everyone, his first product wasnt as
cheap to make as he had hoped.
Anyone who lived on instant ramen
through college may be surprised to hear that it was considered a bit
of a splurge item when it debuted in Japan.
At 35 yen, or around $1.85 USD adjusted
for inflation, a packet was up to six times as expensive as other
noodles at the time. The convenience factor made up for the cost,
though.
Instant ramen was a hit and prices
eventually went downby a lot. Today, the average pack of instant
ramen costs about a quarter, which means eating it for three
meals a day would only cost around
$275 a year.
Though with 1820 milligrams of sodium
in every brick of chicken Top Ramen, thats not something that I would recommend
if you want to avoid paying back those savings in medical bills.
As ramen became synonymous with
convenience food abroad, the ramen stalls that first
popped up in the early 20th century
experienced a resurgence in Japan.
Though ramen was practically outlawed
in the years right after the war, Americas presence in Japan actually
boosted ramens profile in the long run. America sent cheap wheat to
Japan during the post-war food shortages.
This was partially a humanitarian
effort to stave off hunger, and partially a political calculation,
American leaders feared the prospect of East Asian countries turning
to communism out of desperation, or frustration with Western powers.
In the mid-50s, Japan and America
signed a series of agreements that sold surplus American wheat to
Japan.
At the same time, American
propagandists teamed up with the Japanese government to extol the
virtues of wheat as part of a healthy diet.
One part of this propaganda campaign
involved sending out kitchen busses in an attempt to teach the
Japanese to bake bread, a plan that was doomed by the fact that many
Japanese kitchens lacked ovens.
They even suggested that a diet relying
on rice could cause brain damage . When laws on food vendors relaxed
in the 1950s, the dishs now-healthy reputation, paired with its great
value in a time of economic recovery, helped make it a success.
It was also around this time that the
basic meal started to get complicated.
Different parts of the country began
developing or spreading their own styles of ramen. Fukuoka, which
sits at the center of Japans pork industry, became famous for its
tonkotsu.
Not to be confused with the Japanese
pork cutlet tonkatsu, tonkotsu is a cloudy stock made by simmering
pig bones for up to 12 hours sometimes even longer.
This breaks down the fat, marrow, and
minerals inside the bones to create a broth thats unctuous and
opaque.
Other areas are better known for their
tare than their broth. Tare is the seasoning thats ladled into the
bottom of ramen bowls before the other ingredients are added, and in
many cases, its the main source of salt in the dish.
The miso in miso ramen is an example of
tare. Chefs in Northern Hokkaido first had the idea to add fermented
soybean paste to ramen as a hearty, savory antidote to the regions
cold winters.
But the earliest use of tare can be
traced back to those first bowls of ramen served at the turn of the
20th century.
In an effort to make chinese lamian
feel more Japanese, cooks seasoned their noodle soup with soy sauce
something that actually originated in China before making its way to
Japan.
No matter the style of ramen, it almost
always comes with toppings seaweed, eggs, bean sprouts, corn, green
onions, preserved bamboo shoots, and braised pork being some of the
most common options.
But while many Americans consume those
ingredients in other dishes, ramen may be the only place they
encounter the fish cake known as narutomaki.
If you dont recognize the name, you
may know it as that white disc with the pink swirl in the center.
Narutomaki, or naruto for short, actually predates modern ramen.
It was first made in the 19th century
by shaping pureed whitefish into a loaf and cutting it into slices.
The pink swirl in the middle is made
from food coloring, and its inspired by the whirlpools of Japans
Naruto Strait, hence the name.
Today the swirl has a more modern
connotation, with the word naruto used as slang for the @ symbol. By
the 1980s, ramen was a cultural phenomenon in Japan.
Unlike other Japanese dishes that were
tied to centuries of tradition, young chefs were free to experiment
with ramen and elevate it to something beyond its blue-collar roots.
But it would still take a couple
decades for the dish to gain widespread respect in the U.S.
Restaurant they often given credit for helping Americans see ramen as
something more than a quick, dirt-cheap meal.
Ramen may well rival sushi for the
title of Japans most beloved culinary export.
One of the cool things about the
history of ramen is that its still evolving.
The chef often working 90 hour a
weeks, but they embraces ramen worldwide. In that spirit, we asked
them to explain some differences between the culture of ramen in
Japan versus in the United States.
One difference between ramen culture
in Japan and in America is the average time someone eats their ramen.
So in Japan the average time is about twelve to fifteen minutes. In
the U.S., it's about 40 minutes.
In America, you want to socialize, you
want to, talk about how your day went.
In Japan they consider ramen as fast
food. Get your bowl of ramen, and get going with your day. In Japan
they don't do any take out ramen. The chef understands that the
noodles will go bad by the time they eat it at home.
In the United States, takeout is the
norm.
So noodle manufacturers made noodles
that will last until it gets home. U.S. manufacturers might add a
little bit of gluten or egg whites to keep it from going soggy.
Conclusion
A perfect noodle in Japan might be
different than what it would be in America. Another difference
between Japan and America is how you pay for your ramen. In Japan
they tend to have ticket machines called "kenbaiki."
You're able to select your ramen, even
order beer with it, pay, usually in cash once the ticket comes out,
you hand that ticket to the chef.
In the United States, you'll have a
waiter, most likely, and you'll be able to pay with cash or credit
card.
You'll also need to tip in America.
Even though the ramen might be different in Japan and America,
there's always great ramen.
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